Banho Turco Feminino (A Female Turkish Bath or Hammam) - Jean-Jacques-François Le Barbier
Coleção privada
OST - 84x130 - 1785
This remarkable and perfectly-preserved
picture, which anticipates by several decades the taste for Orientalist
paintings in Western Europe, was painted to provide the design for an
engraved plate to Ignatius Mouradgea d'Ohsson's Tableau
Général de l'Empire Othoman. Through this work, published over
many years in both folio and octavo editions, the enigmatic Baron D'Ohsson
became a hugely influential figure in our understanding and appreciation of
the culture of the Ottoman Empire, and a driving force in the upsurge of
European interest in all things Turkish, which peaked well into the
following century. In the insatiable curiosity and the passion for
encyclopaedic detail that permeates his published works he epitomised the
spirit of enquiry of the Enlightenment. The present painting
descended in his family until 2007.
Baron d'Ohsson was born into a French-Armenian family in
Constantinople in 1740. From around 1760 he was employed as a Dragoman (a
traditional post of interpreter and intermediary) at the Swedish Legation in
Constantinople, and in 1775 he became personal and confidential secretary there
to the Swedish King Gustav III. Gustav employed him to spy on his
minister, Ulric von Celsing, and in 1780 ennobled him as Baron
d'Ohsson. D'Ohsson was an influential figure in Ottoman public life and at
the Sultan's court. He was a reformer by instinct, and invited
by the Sultan Selim III to propose reforms of the Ottoman administration. He
was also a successful entrepreneur, importing weaponry and ironmongery from
Swedish foundries, gunpowder from Holland and grain from
Salonika. Following his widowhood in 1782, but more likely because of the
wealth of material that he had gathered for publication, d'Ohsson took leave in
1784 and went to Paris, where he published the first two volumes of his Tableau
Général de l'Empire Othoman, in 1787 and 1789. After four
years, however, after witnessing the storming of the Bastille, and following
disagreements with his publishers, he went to Vienna. In 1792 he
returned to Constantinople, where he resumed his diplomatic career, becoming
Counsellor under the Swedish minister Pehr Olof von Asp. From 1795 to 1799
he held the office of Minister Plenipotentiary and was Head of the Swedish
Legation in Constantinople, where he also represented the interests of
the United States of America and Portugal.
The monumental folio volumes of his Tableau
Général de l'Empire Othoman describe the daily life, mores and
legal system of the Ottoman Empire, lavishly illustrated with engravings
after designs by the leading artists of the day in France. They were not
only hugely popular in Europe, but were greeted with rapture by Selim III, and
because of their taxonomic cataloguing of Ottoman life, gave credence to their
author's subsequent prescriptions for improvements, for example the
establishment of the Military Officer's Technical School. Despite this, he
fell out of favor with the Sublime Porte, and following the decline in Swedish
influence after the murder of Gustav III, in 1799 he was expelled from
Constantinople.
The plates illustrating the text of the Tableau
Général were done under the supervision of Charles-Nicolas
Cochin, (some plates are inscribed Cochin direxit) until
1787, when he and the author had a major falling-out, by which time the first
two volumes were largely complete. D'Ohsson claimed to have
assembled original illustrations by European and Greek painters (and a few
Muslim artists) for his plates, writing in 1784 that he was awaiting 42 more
paintings to be shipped from Constantinople. By paintings he may well have
meant illustrations in watercolor or bodycolor on paper. Some at least are
based on designs by Jean-Baptiste Hilaire, who spent some time in Turkey in
1776-7 working for the Comte de Choiseul-Gouffier, and who thus had direct
experience of Turkish life. Some of the plates in the Tableau
Général that are credited to Hilaire, had however to be
re-drawn by Le Barbier to make them easier to engrave. Plate 167 in
the Tableau Général, depicting the Sultan's Bath,
is based directly on a detailed preparatory watercolor drawing by Le Barbier,
in which the figures are stiff and elongated, suggesting that it was in turn
closely based on one of the drawings done by a local artist and shipped to
Paris.
The present painting served as the basis for Plate 13 in the
first volume, and was engraved in the same sense by Robert DeLaunay le Jeune,
and inscribed Le Barbier pinx. The painting predates
the publication of the first volume of the Tableau Général by
two years, but the numbering along the bottom and right edges clearly shows
that its design was intended to be transferred to an engraving. The
architectural details are, given the exigencies of perspective, entirely
accurate, but in contrast to Le Barbier's drawing for the comparable subject of
plate 167, the composition is far more naturalistic and the figures appear more
European, which suggests that the design was not based on a locally made
drawing. The woman on the left holding the small tray with henna in her
hands, and the child next to her, are very similar to a pastel by Jean-Etienne
Liotard, which Le Barbier may well have known.
The plate is entitled: BAIN PUBLIC des femmes Mahomédanées (The
Public Bath of Muslim Women) and illustrates a point made in d'Ohsson's text
about ritual public cleanliness, and specifically the occasions that demand a
complete washing of the body. Based on direct personal experience, he
emphasized the decorum that prevailed in hammams as well as the pleasures of
bathing and relaxing in the company of fellow women. The plate directly
illustrates d'Ohsson's lengthy but informative account of the public hammam:
"Every city, town, village, however insignificant, has its
public baths, Hammam... they are constantly heated: each sex
has its own; there are also ones in common..., the day for women, the night for
men... One never enters except naked, the body simply covered by a towel, Peschtumal,
from breast to feet; it is of silk, linen, or cotton, always red or blue; on
the feet one wears high clogs, Nalinn, because the heat of
the pavement does not permit walking on it barefooted..."
"Women avail themselves of the services of the bath
attendants..., These Telaks, as they are called,
are singularly skilled at dressing the hair, washing the body, and rubbing the
skin, from shoulders to feet; they use a bath mitt of serge, along with the
lather of perfumed soap; they also use [Fuller's Earth], Kil, mixed
with rose petals, to remove the oil from the hair. Since all Muslim women...depilate
themselves, this too being a matter of religious principle, they also use a
very fine caustic clay".
"Many women who have pains have themselves massaged
by a matron..., especially those who have recently given birth. This
procedure, often quite painful, usually occurs on a raised platform in the
middle of the bath. Moreover, everything occurs in the greatest decency;
every woman keeps on the towel in which she is wrapped; the bath attendants
pass the hands under the towel to rub the stomach, the thighs and the
legs. When one has finished bathing, one changes into a fine, clean
chemise; the attendants also cover the shoulders with a cloth and the head with
a white kerchief; one then passes into the antichamber of the bath, Djeamékeann..."
"There one experiences a calm and a well being difficult
to describe; it is a sort of regeneration, its calm heightened by refreshing
beverages, especially an exquisite coffee".
A modern account of a Turkish hammam would
hardly differ.
Nenhum comentário:
Postar um comentário